Garden tour of Iran will open your eyes to more than just ancient Persian history

nationalpost - Remnants of the oldest and possibly the most influential garden in the world, Pasargadae near Shiraz, drew me to visit Iran — and what a voyage of discovery it has been!

These ancient gardens built by Cyrus the Great in the 6th century BC have been excavated sufficiently for historians to determine the outline of his personal paradise; a revolutionary design of pools and channels of flowing water, tree-lined avenues, parterres and orchards that inspired villa gardens in Greece and Rome, as well as Persian gardens in Iran, Spain and India.

Could this be the birthplace of a garden tradition that has developed to include such classical masterpieces as Versailles or the Villa d’Este? I just had to see where it all began.

I admit I view the world through a garden lens, having had the privilege of a horticultural career managing some great public gardens, including Vancouver’s VanDusen Botanical Garden. I anticipated following this passion to Iran would open my eyes to the rich artistic heritage of the Persian civilization, viewed through splendid palaces and gardens carefully preserved for hundreds of years. However, this trip opened my eyes to so much more, most notably the little-known and often misunderstood culture of present day Iran. That, if anything, was the true revelation.

Jill CherryIn Shiraz, Iran, a watchtower anchors a corner of the fortified citadel that was the home of the regent, Karim Khan Zand.

When I tell people I lead garden tours in Iran (with Vancouver’s Bestway Tours Safaris), the questions tend to start with “is it safe?” To which I reply, yes, it certainly feels that way.

This is followed by, “Are North Americans welcome?” and, “What is it like for a western woman travelling in Iran?” What I tell people is that, amazingly, I have never been to such a friendly country. Nowhere else have I had so many impromptu conversations with local people or been coerced into being part of family photo ops on a daily basis. As for being female, perhaps the biggest surprise for me was just how feisty and glamorous Iranian women are, so being a woman traveller just feels comfortable. Government rules require modest attire and a head scarf, which takes some pre-planning, but one adjusts quite quickly.

That Iran has beautiful gardens is also news to many. Coming from a rainforest environment we just don’t expect gardens in a desert. That is what is so exciting about Persian gardens.

Water here is precious — life giving and essential. It becomes a potent symbol of luxury. Still and flowing, cooling the air within open pavilions, rising in fountains, falling in cascades, as mirrors for the towering cypress trees that cast their shade, water is at the heart of Persian gardens.

Protected by high walls against vast expanses of desert landscape, in a country where all rivers are seasonal, it seems a miracle gardens exist at all.

It’s not a miracle, though, for it is ancient, innovative technology that has allowed communities to develop. Underground canals, known as qanats, cross the land for miles, transporting water from its source at the base of mountains to where it is needed in the villages, towns, farms and orchards. Telltale trails of what look like giant molehills traverse the sand and are the aboveground traces of deep maintenance shafts that reach down from the surface to the water below.

To the south of Tehran, in the dusty town of Kashan, is the 16th century Fin Garden created by Shah Abbas I. If any garden in Iran captures the meaning of gardens for Iranians past and present, this is it. The Bagh-e Fin is lush, green and magnificent and water flows freely through the turquoise-tiled streams and pools, creating a perfect backdrop for families having fun as children paddle and young people take selfies on iPhones. There is no question there are challenges to living in Iran but there is also a “joie de vivre” that I and my fellow travellers did not expect.

Isfahan and Shiraz are two cities significant on any Iranian garden tour. Shiraz has for centuries been considered a city of gardens, and is home to revered medieval poets, Hafez and Sa’di, who celebrated the scent of flowers and the songs of nightingales in the trees. The city has parks and gardens and tree-lined avenues.

Isfahan, though, is my favourite. It is a true garden city, designed and laid out as a garden by Shah Abbas in 1598, and is full of architectural and artistic treasures.

As one of the world’s oldest and richest civilizations, Persia has a lot to offer, and travel in present-day Iran is a mind-opening experience.